This is stitch creates the look of a thistle on it’s stem, one on top of the other, and creates a lovely looking pattern perfect for wraps and scarves.
For this stitch, the stitches are made between the posts of the stitches in the row below, not in the loops. The only stitches made in the loops are the first and last of each row
If you would like to know how to make the Thistle stitch for any size project, you can see how to do that here
You can purchase the ad free, printable version of the pattern on Ravelry for just £2.40 which includes a weekly update with the next square
This pattern is written in US terms, but you can find the UK translation below.
double crochet (dc) = treble crochet
You will need a 4.5mm hook
Row 1. Dc in 4th chain from your hook (turning chain counts as a stitch) *Skip 2 then make 5 dc in the same stitch. Skip 2. Make a dc in the next 2 stitches* Repeat until the end of the row. 30 stitches
Row 2. Chain 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) and make alternate turning chain in first stitch. In between the two dc of the row below make 2 dc. * In between stitches 2 and 3 of the 5 dc in the row below make a dc, then make another dc between the 3rd and 4th dc of the 5dc of row 1. In between the set of 2 dc in the row below make 5dc*
Repeat the pattern between * and *.
End the row with 2dc in between the set of 2 dc in the row below, then make a final dc in the top loops of the last dc in the row below.
you will have 29 stitches in this row, your stitch count will return to 30 in the next row
Row 3. Chain 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) and make alternate turning chain in first stitch. In between the first two dc of the row below make 1 dc. * In between the set of 2 dc in the row below make 5dc. In between stitches 2 and 3 of the 5 dc in the row below make a dc, then make another dc between the 3rd and 4th dc of the 5dc of row 1*
Repeat the pattern between * and *.
End the row with a dc between the last 2 dc in the row below, then make a final dc in the top loops of the last dc in the row below. 30 stitches
Rows 4 – 13 repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with a repeat of row 3
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Use a 4mm hook for the border stitches
Across the top – make 1 sc in each stitch
Across the bottom – make a sc in the bottom of each stitch, and 2sc around the 2 skipped stitches
The sides – Make 3sc in the sides of rows 1, 4, 9 and 13. Make 2sc in the sides of all other rows.
Add an extra sc in each corner for the turn.
You should have 124sc in total
The Interlocking Border
If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the previous square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.
Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.
*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.
When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the previous square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the loop on the adjoining square. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the adjoining square.
You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.
You can now tie off and weave in your ends.
If you would like to close the gap between the corners of your squares, you can do this with a single stitch. I show you how in this video
If you have any questions about the pattern or the CAL, then come on over to the Facebook group – 50 Stitches where you can show us your completed squares too.