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Week 7 of The 50 Stitches CAL – V Stitch

The V stitch is a really versatile stitch which can be used in blankets, shawls and scarves. If you use a chunky yarn it can be a much more closed pattern with smaller gaps. If you use a thinner yarn it can be much more lacy and open.

There are several versions of the V stitch, some more intricate than others but I’ve opted for this one as I think it creates a pretty look and is nice and easy once you get past row 1.

This stitch is usually made in multiples of 3 plus 7, but I’ve had to modify the pattern slightly with an extra stitch or two to get the correct stitch count we need for our squares.

You can purchase the ad free, printable version of the pattern on Ravelry for just £2.40 which includes a weekly update with the next square

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-50-stitches-cal

UK translation

Double crochet = treble crochet

The Pattern

You will need a 4 mm hook

Chain 32

The turning chain counts as your first dc plus one chain which will count as a skipped stitch.

Row 1. Dc in the 5th chain from your hook, chain 1 then make a dc in the same stitch as the first dc (this forms your first V stitch).  Skip 2 stitches and make your second v stitch (dc, chain 1, dc – all in 1 stitch). *Skip 2 chains, v stitch* repeat this across the chain until you have 3 stitches left. Skip 1 stitch and dc in the last 2 stitches. (30 Stitches in the row)

The first row of the V stitch showing where each of the stitches are placed.
Where you form your first V stitch in relation to the turning chain
Row 1 of the V stitch
Row 1 of the V stitch

Turn

Row 2. Turning chain in the top of the first dc, dc in next stitch. V stitch into the chain space of the v stitch below in row 1. V stitch into every chain space in the row. ( 9 V stitches in total) Dc in last stitch

Row 2 of the V stitch
from Row 2 up, each V stitch is made into the top of the V stitch in the row below

Turn

Row 3. Turning chain in first stitch. V stitch in every chain space. Dc in last 2 stitches.

Rows 4-13. Repeat rows 2 and 3. End with a repeat of row 3. There should be 9 V stitches in each row and 30 stitches in total

The Border.

For the top and bottom sc in the post of the V and 2 sc in the gap of each V. For the edges make 3 sc in the side of rows 1, 4, 9 and 13, 2 sc in the side of all other rows. Add an extra sc in the corners for the turn. There should be 32 sc on each side and 124 sc in total.

The Interlocking Border

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the previous square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the previous square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the seed stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the adjoining square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You can now tie off and weave in your ends.

If you have any questions about the pattern or the CAL, then come on over to the Facebook group – 50 Stitches where you can show us your completed squares too.

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Week 6 of the 50 Stitches CAL – Waffle Stitch

A heavily textured stitch that is popular for baby blankets, and guess what? It looks like a waffle!

This stitch is made in multiples of 3 plus 1

You can purchase the ad free, printable version of the pattern on Ravelry for just £2.40 which includes a weekly update with the next square

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-50-stitches-cal

UK Translation

Double crochet (dc) = treble crochet

Front post double crochet (fpdc) = front post treble crochet

The Pattern

You need a 4mm hook

Chain 32

Row 1. DC in 4th chain from hook (the turning chain counts as your first stitch), dc in each stitch across

Turn

Row 2. Turning chain, fpdc in next stitch, *dc in next 2 stitches, fpdc* continue across row. In last stitch make a dc

Turn

Row 3. Turning chain. *Dc in next stitch, fpdc in next 2 stitches* repeat across the row, in last 2 stitches make a dc

Row 4-15. Repeat rows 2 and 3

End on a repeat of row 3

The Border

Make 2 sc in the side of each row of dc. Add an extra sc in each corner for the turn. Sc in each stitch across the top and bottom. You should have 124 sc in total.

The Interlocking Border

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the previous square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the previous square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the seed stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the adjoining square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You can now tie off and weave in your ends.

If you have any questions about the pattern or the CAL, then come on over to the Facebook group – 50 Stitches where you can show us your completed squares too.

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Week 5 of the 50 Stitches CAL – Alpine Stitch

The alpine stitch creates a really thick texture, great for bags and baskets. Anything that requires sturdy sides, would suit this stitch.

This stitch is done in multiples of 2 +1. You will need a 3.5mm hook

UK translation

Single crochet (sc) = double crochet

Double crochet (dc) = treble crochet

Front post double crochet (fpdc) = front post treble crochet

The pattern

Chain 32. 

Row 1. Dc in 4th chain from your hook (this is your 2nd stitch, as the turning chain counts as your first stitch) dc in each chain across (30 stitches in row)

Turn

Row 2. chain 1 single crochet in each stitch across

Row 3. Alternate double turning chain (counts as your first stitch)  front post double crochet in next stitch (yarn over and insert your hook in the post of the double crochet directly below in row 1 from right to left. Pull through a loop, now complete your dc as normal). *Dc in next stitch, fpdc* repeat across the row. Dc in last 2 stitches. 14 fpdc in the row

30 stitches in total in the the row.

Turn

A front post double crochet is made around the post of the double crochet in the row below
once you’ve pulled your hook back through the post, you will have 3 loops on your hook. Complete the double crochet as you normally would
A ridge will develop on the back of your work while making the fodc, dc rows
Your row of fpdc/dc will look like this. Always start and end with a dc

Row 4. 1, sc in top of the last dc of the row below. Sc in each stitch across.

Turn

Row 5. alternate turning chain, *dc in next stitch, fpdc in next stitch* repeat across the row. Dc in last stitch. 14 fpdc in the row.

Turn

Rows 6 – 27 Repeat rows 2 – 5

Your final row will be dc and fpdc

You should have 14 rows of dc/fpdc and 13 rows of sc

The Border

Make 2 sc in the side of each row of dc. Except for the first and last rows where you should make 2 sc in the side of the double crochet stitches. Ignore the sc rows. Add an extra sc in the corners for the turn.

You should have 32 sc on each side (the extra sc in the corners is included with the count on both sides) 124 sc in total.

The Interlocking Border

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the previous square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the previous square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the seed stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the bobble stitch square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You can now tie off and weave in your ends.

If you have any questions about the pattern or the CAL, then come on over to the Facebook group – 50 Stitches where you can show us your completed squares too.


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Week 4 of The 50 Stitches CAL – Corner To Corner

The corner to corner (C2C) is a quick to stitch to make up, and is popular for making large blankets.

Each set of stitches creates a block which is square, so perfect for making graphed out designs – graphgans

The c2c is made in diagonal rows, so you start by making a corner, and increase the number of blocks in each row until you have the length and width you need, then you start decreasing again until you finish with the last corner block.

This stitch is made in multiples of 3, and a 6 chain foundation

You can purchase the ad free, printable version of the pattern on Ravelry for just £2.40 which includes a weekly update with the next square

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-50-stitches-cal

UK translation

Double crochet = treble crochet

The pattern

For this square you will need a 4mm hook

Row 1. Chain 6.

Dc in 4th chain from your hook. Dc in next 2 chains.

Turn

Row 2. Chain 6, Dc in 4th chain from your hook. Dc in next 2 chains. Slip stitch into the turning chain of the previous row. Chain 3, in the same turning chain make 3 dc.

The turning chain of each block acts as a foundation chain for a block in the next row.

Turn

Row 3. Chain 6, Dc in 4th chain from your hook. Dc in next 2 chains. *Slip stitch into the turning chain of the last block in previous row. Chain 3, in the same turning chain make 3 dc* repeat in the side of all squares from the previous row.

Rows 4-10 

Repeat row 3

Turn

Row 11

This is where we start the decrease.

To decrease your rows, slip stitch in the top of each of the dc of the last block of the previous row. Slip stitch into the turning chain then carry on the pattern as before

Slip stitch in the top of all 3 dc in the first square. Slip stitch into the 2nd Square. *Chain 3 in the same turning chain make 3 dc* repeat in the side of all squares from the previous row except the last one. 

Turn

Repeat row 11 until you only have 1 block left.

You should have 10 blocks on each side of your square

If you want to change colour during your square, just attach your new colour during the last dc of any block, then just carry on as per the pattern.

To change colour, add the new colour in the last 2 loops of the last dc of the block

Tie off

The border

3 sc in each block on each side. Add an extra sc for the corners.

You should have 32 sc on each side, 124 sc in total

Now add your interlocking border.

Interlocking border

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the previous square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the previous square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the seed stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the bobble stitch square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You can now tie off and weave in your ends.

If you have any questions about the pattern or the CAL, then come on over to the Facebook group – 50 Stitches where you can show us your completed squares too.

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Week 2 of The 50 Stitches CAL – The Bobble/Puff Stitch

Welcome to week 2 of The 50 Stitches crochet-a-long!

This week we’re doing the bobble stitch, also known as the puff stitch. I’ve chosen to do this as a colour work square to really show off those bobbles in all their glory.

The bobble stitch is a great stitch to use to add designs to your work, and is commonly used to add writing onto the piece by laying out the bobbles in a carefully arranged pattern.

For this square we’re using a 3.5mm hook and you will need around 70 meters of yarn.

This blog does contain ads, but if you would like a printable, ad free version you can purchase it on Ravelry for just £2.40. This is a one off payment and you will receive an update with the next square each week.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-50-stitches-cal

UK translation

single crochet (sc) = double crochet

double crochet (dc) = treble crochet

The Pattern

The bobble stitch needs all the bobbles to be formed on the same side, so alternates with rows of single crochet.

Start with a foundation row of 31 stitches. Your turning chain will count as a single crochet.

Row 1. Single crochet in the 3rd chain from your hook (this will be the 29th chain of your foundation row). Single crochet across the entire chain. This will give you 30 sc in total.

Turn

Row 2. Chain 1 and make a double crochet alternate turning chain. Double crochet in the next 2 stitches, join your 2nd colour (do this by not completing the 2nd dc, leave last 2 loops on your hook then finish the stitch by pulling through the new colour)

Make your first bobble in the next stitch. Remember to always carry the colour you’re not using at the front of your work so it won’t be seen in the finished square. You need to keep the carried yarn taught.

The bobble is made by dc5tog (double crochet 5 together) to see how to do this To do this start making a double crochet, but leave the last 2 loops on your hook. Then in the same stitch start another dc, but leave 3 loops on your hook. Carry on doing this until you have 5 half completed double crochet and 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops then rejoin your first colour and chain 1. then rejoin your first colour and chain 1.

*Double crochet in the next 5 stitches. Bobble* continue this pattern until you have 5 bobbles. Finish the row with 2 dc. You can cut off the colour you’re using for your bobbles. You will have 5 bobbles and 25 double crochet in the row

turn

Row 3. Chain 1 and make an alternate single crochet turning chain, and single crochet across the entire row, taking care not to make a stitch in the chain before the bobble where you changed colour.

Turn

In this row we’re going to offset our bobbles

Row 4. Chain 1 and make an alternate double crochet turning chain, then dc in the next 5 stitches. Bobble. *5dc, bobble* continue this pattern across until you have 4 bobbles in total and finish the row with a dc in the last 5 sc. You will have 4 bobbles and 26 double crochet in the row.

turn

Row 5. Alternate sc turning chain, single crochet across the row

Repeat rows 2-5 until you have 19 rows in total. You should finish with a row of single crochet.

For the border

Single crochet in each stitch across the top and bottom, adding an extra stitch for each corner.

Down the sides make a sc in the side of each sc, and 2 sc in the side of each dc – except in row 1 and row 19. In the side of the single crochet in these rows make 2 sc. This will make your stitch count as 32 stitches across each side and 124 stitches total (remember the extra stitch corner stitch is counted in the stitch count for both sides)

I recommend blocking your square now.

Joining with the first square

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the seed stitch square so they are joined together. Use a 4mm hook for this part of the border on all squares.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the seed stitch square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the seed stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the bobble stitch square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You can now tie off and weave in your ends.

Week 3 of the 50 Stitches CAL – Camel Stitch

It’s week 3, and after last weeks challenge we’re going back to something simple.

The Camel stitch is just half double crochet worked into the 3rd loop. It creates a lovely ribbed texture that you can use as cuffs for jumpers, or on hats. There are 2 ways to do the camel stitch, I’ll show you both so you can decide which to use.

If you would like a printable, ad free version of the pattern, you can find it on Ravelry for just £2.40

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-50-stitches-cal

For this square you need a 4.5mm hook

UK Translation

Half Double Crochet (Hdc) = half treble crochet

We’ll start with the simplest version of the camel stitch.

The Pattern

For your foundation row chain 32. Turn

Your turning chain will count as your first half double crochet (Hdc)

Row 1. Hdc in the 4th chain from your hook (the 29th foundation chain) Hdc in each chain across.

You will have 30 stitches

Turn

Row 2. Chain 1, Alternate dc turning chain (this will count as a Hdc) – makes this stitch in the back 2 loops to stabilise the edges.

Hdc in each stitch across IN BACK 3RD LOOP ONLY.

The 3 loops of the Hdc

The texture will be on both sides of your square.

In the final stitch of the row make your hdc in the back 2 loops to stabilise the edge of the square.

Turn

For rows 3-15 repeat row 2.

You should end up with a square looking like this

I recommend blocking your square now.

For a more heavily ribbed square, where all the texture is on one side only, you use the front loop as well as the 3rd loop.

This works by alternating between rows of Hdc in the back loop, and a row of Hdc in the front loop. This will put all of the texture on the front of the square leaving the back plain.

So row 1 you would do as the pattern above, row 2 you would make your Hdc in the front loop only

Rows 3 – 15 repeat rows 1 and 2

In the odd numbered rows you will be using the back loop, in the even numbered rows you will be using the front loop.

This gives a more heavily textured effect

The Border

Single crochet in each stitch on the top and bottom of the square. For the sides you will need to make 2 sc in the side of each hdc. Remember to add an extra stitch in the corners for the turn.

The Interlocking Border

If you are joining as you go, we need to add the interlocking border and weave it into the border of the bobble stitch square so they are joined together.

Start the border in the extra corner stitch on the bottom left hand side with a standing single crochet, and single crochet in the next corner stitch.

*Chain 4, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next two stitches* repeat this pattern across the bottom edge until you reach the next corner (you should have 6 loops). Make a single crochet in all 3 corner stitches. Carry on the pattern above. Do this for 3 sides.

When you get to the top left corner, single crochet in the 3 corner stitches then chain 4. Pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the top right loop of the seed stitch square. Hook the loop from your chain 4 and pull it up through the bobble stitch loop. Pull your loop tight, skip 3 and single crochet in the next 2 stitches of the camel stitch square.

You should have joined the first 2 loops together. Repeat this for all 6 loops until you get back to the bottom left hand corner. Single crochet in the corner stitch, and join into the standing stitch.

You have now finished your square and join and you can tie off and weave in the ends

Week 1 of The 50 Stitches CAL – Seed/Lemon Peel Stitch

Welcome to week 1 of the 50 Stitches CAL!

I’m so excited to finally be getting started and sharing this fabulous project with you.

This weeks square is the seed stitch, which is also known as the lemon peel stitch. It is a really easy stitch and has a beautiful, gentle texture that is popular for using to make dishcloths and facecloths.

The Seed Stitch also known as the Lemon Peel Stitch


I love the texture of this and is one of my favourite stitches. Its also a really simple stitch, so a great one for any beginners.

To make this stitch you only need single and double crochet and we’ll be alternating between the 2 throughout the entire square.

UK translation
Single crochet (sc) = double crochet
Double crochet (dc) = treble crochet

For this square we’re using a 3.5mm hook, and it needs approx 35 metres of yarn.

If you find this hook size uncomfortable with aran/worsted yarn then go up to a 4mm, but you must also increase your hook size by 0.5mm for every square in the CAL if you do this.

The Pattern

Video Tutorial for Week 1 of the 50 Stitches CAL


Start by making a foundation row of 31. I recommend putting a stitch marker in the first loop from your hook as the turning chain will count as a single crochet.

Stitch marker in the 31st chain

Row 1. Double crochet in the 3rd chain from your hook. Repeat this pattern across the row *sc, dc* repeat until the end, finishing with a double crochet.

Your row should always end with a double crochet

Turn.

Row 2. Chain 1 and single crochet in the first stitch (the chain 1 does not count as a stitch and is part of the alternate turning chain)

Alternate turning chain which counts as a single crochet

dc in the next stitch then *sc, dc* across. End with a dc

Repeat row 2 until you have 20 rows.

Your square should now have roughly equal measurements on each side.

To add the single crochet border. Make a standing sc in any stitch on the top or bottom. Sc in each stitch across. When you get to the corner sc 3 in the same stitch – this counts as the final stitch of that row, a stitch for the corner, and the first stitch of the next side.

Start work down the side of the square. In the side of each dc make 2 sc, in the side of each sc make 1 sc.

When complete you should have 32 sc on each side.

The interlocking join for the 50 Stitches crochet-a-long


Now we can add the interlocking border. Use a 4mm hook for this. As this is the first square you will add this border on all sides. Start in a corner and make a standing single crochet. Single crochet in all 3 corner stitches.

Slip stitch in each of the 3 corner stitches

*Chain 4, skip 3 stitches and single crochet in the next 2 stitches* repeat this across until you reach the corner. Make a single crochet in each of the 3 corner stitches, then repeat the pattern on the next side. Do this for all 4 sides.

The squares will be joined by weaving the border through these loops

Your square is complete!
I recommend blocking your square now to enhance those beautiful stitches.

Introducing the 50 Stitches Crochet-a-long

Crochet-a-longs have been really popular projects over the last few years, they’re such a great way to create a beautiful design while being part of a friendly, helpful community as well.

I’ve always loved seeing all the beautiful crochet-a-longs that have been released over the years, but oh my don’t they need you to crochet at a furious pace to keep up?

I know there’s nothing wrong with going slower and just admire others finished pieces in the meantime, but I always feel behind with the times and end up loosing momentum and that feeling of being part of a community.

So, i always knew that if I created a CAL of my own that it would be one that went at a much slower pace.

As I teach crochet, one of the things I hear quite a bit is that “I can only do a granny stitch” or “I couldn’t possible try that I can only do really simple stitches”
That’s just a lack of confidence in their own abilities as there are lots of different stitches made with the same elements as granny stitch or any simple stitch, they’re just rearranged in a different order.

The 50 Stitches CAL will be made up of 50 squares, each using a different stitch or technique. We will then join them all together to create a beautiful sampler blanket.

Its because of these 2 elements that I came up with the 50 stitches CAL.
– 50 squares
– 50 stitches
– 50 weeks
Each square will then be joined together to make a beautiful sampler blanket.


Each square will be around 17cm on each edge, so easy to make in an hour or 2 each week. Each week will feature a new stitch or technique so you can expand your stitch range.

Each square will have a written step by step pattern as well as a video tutorial. There is a dedicated Facebook group for the project – Click here to join 50 Stitches Group

Now what do you need to know?

My colour choices for the 50 Stitches CAL. I’m using Rico Creative Cotton Aran, but any fibre type can be used.


I’ll be using 4 colours in Rico Creative Cotton Aran, but this would make a great stash busting project so use as many or as few colours as you like.
If you’ve never worked with non mercerised cotton before, then be aware that the Rico can split. You may want to switch to another fibre type if you would find this troublesome.

Rico cotton aran is a thin aran (also called Worsted weight), so you can get away with switching to a DK (Double knit or light worsted) and still keep my finished sizes and hook sizes used.

Although I’m from the UK I use US terms. I will give the UK translations each week for all the stitches, but otherwise everything will be in US stitch terms including the tutorial videos.

Different stitches work up in different tensions, so to keep the squares the same size I’ve had to use several hook sizes. So it’s important that you pay attention to the hook size stated for each square, as it will change quite often. If you are uncomfortable using the small hook sizes for aran yarn, then go up a hook size. But if you do this you need to do the same for every square otherwise you will end up with squares of different sizes.

The hook sizes needed are:
– 3.5mm
– 4mm
– 4.5mm
– 5.5mm

I’ve calculated the total amount of yarn needed as 3500 metres or 3800 yards. This is a generous overcalculation, so should be plenty to get you through the entire project.

I’ve had so much fun putting this together, even though I’ve done more frogging in the last few weeks than I have for the whole of 2019 😂

I really hope you enjoy this project and that you get to try a few new stitches and techniques while doing it.

Please come and join the Facebook group and show us how your getting along, your beautiful colour combos and of course I’ll be there to give a helping hand too.

One of the squares we’ll be making during the CAL. This one needs you to carry a second strand of yarn in front of the other to create this effect.


The Perfect Crochet Recipe

Crochet Patterns are just like recipes. You have to first check the ingredients list to see if you have everything you need, if not then off to the store you go. Then when you have everything, you follow the recipe step by step until VOILA your beautiful creation that you worked so hard to create is ready to show off to your family and friends.

Just like recipes, once you have some experience and have some understanding how your ingredients compliment each other, you can begin experimenting with different yarns than recommended, maybe see what a change in hook size does, perhaps tweak some of the steps to make the recipe truly your own that others get jealous over and wonder if they could do the same.

And just like recipes, crochet uses just a few basic processes that if you take the time and practice, can be perfected to a precision skill.

You see, 90% of crochet is based on 6 basic stitch building blocks. If you master these 6 basic stitches, then you can create 90% of crochet stitches no matter how complicated they look at first glance. The trick to a stunning crochet piece is to make the simple look hard. In reality it just needs time and practice.

If you’re just getting started with your hooking journey, it can seem really daunting. But take a deep breath and take it step by step. There’s no point worrying about step number 23, when you haven’t done step 1 yet.

You can find The Cool Crochet Society YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn6_CNkaDwU9uw9HFsAJhoQ

Take a look at my YouTube channel for bite size, to the point videos on how to get started. I cover everything from how to attach yarn to your hook to how to create those basic stitches and techniques such as the magic circle and how to easily create texture in your work.

My video tutorials are created to be straight to the point, clear and concise so that you can fit them into your busy life and get cracking with your crochet journey.

Crochet has so many benefits including acting as stress relief, reducing anxiety and just giving you the opportunity to release your inner creativity while curled up on the sofa watching the latest Netflix release.

Crochet is such a convenient hobby, you don’t need any specialist equipment as everything can be picked up from your local craft store relatively cheaply and you can make practical items for your home such as dishcloths, storage baskets, cushion covers or you could even try your hand at clothing and jewellery

These pretty spiral earrings are simple to crochet, yet will get you dozens of compliments
These spiral earrings make a unique addition to your jewellery collection, and are super easy to crochet. You can find the pattern here

You can make some stunning items really simply, so there’s no need to wait until you’ve practised some complicated stitch combinations to make something you can be proud to show off. A cute storage basket can be made using just single crochet and a beautiful patterned t-shirt yarn. A scarf can be made lengthways with several colour changes and a fringe to make a trendy accessory.

If you have any questions about anything crochet or yarn related, you can come and find me in my Facebook group The Cool Crochet Society where you will find lots of tips, advice and you can ask any questions you have.

I hope to see you soon, and happy hooking!

Welcome!

Welcome to The Cool Crochet Society Blog!

I’m so excited to be sharing my crochet journey with you. I’m Kelly, mum to a very crazy 4 year old and an equally crazy huskamute, and wife to my lovely husband. We live near Manchester in the North West of the UK.

I started crocheting too many years ago to mention. I did cross stitch when I was young, but I wanted a more practical hobby, to be able to make something I could use instead of just looking pretty.

So I bought my first hook and a ball of yarn and binge watched youtube videos to learn my stuff. And that is pretty much how I got hooked on the crochet bug.

As times gone on I’ve created items using my own patterns, and I want to share those patterns and also share my crochet knowledge to make learning easier than it was for me. So I’ve created The Cool Crochet Society where you will find lots of tips, advice and bite sized tutorials that you can watch at your own convenience. I will bring you crochet news, events, pattern and yarn releases, and generally all things crochet related.

I hope you will join me in my journey and come and join my free Facebook group to find all my articles, yarny news and tutorials. http://www.facebook.com/groups/TheCoolCrochetSociety